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| Shinjuku by night |
Here it was, the long anticipated finale to our Asian trip. We couldn't have imagined a better way of spending the last week than getting lost in this grand capital city that's so often ranked as one of the top cities in the world. We were stoked, to say the least. And talking about grand, we happened to arrive straight to the busiest part of Tokyo - The Shinjuku Station. An approximate three million people hustle through this station a day, making it the world's busiest train station. But hey, for a city this size and significance it's only fitting to make a grand entry and dive in with both feet, right?
In reality, we were pretty much thrown in the middle of Kabukichō - the famous nightlife district (also known as the red-light district). In the jungle of bright lights and millions of establishments, we tried to navigate to our hotel. Let's just say it wasn't the easiest navigational task, but we finally found our place; just off the busy streets on a quieter alley, yet in the middle of this crazy, electric district that's often considered as the "downtown" of Tokyo. The thing about Tokyo is that there are these 23 "wards" that together make up for the entire metropolis. Each of them represent quite a unique side of the city and so it's almost impossible to pin down the actual city center. That being said, basing ourselves in the Shinjuku was definitely a great idea considering how lively it is, both day and night, with endless possibilities of things to do, plus it's very well connected to the other parts of the city with the subway system.
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| Around the station |
So what is Shinjuku except for those sparkly lights and big crowds? Like I said before it has a lot to offer; insane amount of shopping, equally many dining possibilities, some of the capital's best nightlife scene, the business district with skyscrapers (and views!), beautiful national gardens and the disputed quarter of Golden Gai, just to mention few. Let's take a closer look at some of those places...
KABUKICHŌ (red-light district)
For the first three night our hotel was located in the middle of this district. First impression? Chaotic. But the more we spent time there, the more we actually enjoyed it! I mean, aren't these giant billboards and neon lights exactly the Tokyo we've been hearing and reading about? Seriously, we could take a midnight stroll around the Shinjuku station and think it's the 6pm rush hour or alternatively walk along the Kabukichō's streets on any day of the week and think it's the Saturday night out - NYC might carry the nickname of 'City That Never Sleeps', but Tokyo is that city.
Having our hotel just around the corner, it was so easy and fun to get out on these bustling streets and catch a dinner in one of the many Izakayas (I'll be posting about it later, so stay tuned) and generally just go with the flow. The thing about it is that you would think that the crowd and all that noise would be outrageous but in fact it never got too overwhelming. Perhaps because people are generally quite polite and more restrained - it's almost like they would master the art of perfect balance and control. At the same time I think what really sets Tokyo apart from some other huge metropolitan cities is its lack of people with very different cultural backgrounds. I'm not saying there is no racial variety but just that it's in seemingly smaller scale than in many other cities this size.
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| Locals letting lose in their popular 'after work' scene |
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| A blend of modern buildings and old-fashioned taxis |
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| In Tokyo you can buy anything out of a vending machine (that are literally everywhere) |
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| Views from the rooftop of our hotel |
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| The streets are full of eateries and bars |
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| Hanazono Shrine |
GOLDEN GAI
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| Narrow alleys filled with shanty-style bars |
In the middle of Shinjuku, we found this quarter that's been under the threat of demolition on few occasions already. This complex of narrow alleys represents the Tokyo how it used to be before the high-rise buildings and large avenues took over its cityscape. You could say it's what's left of old Tokyo. Apparently it's been a highly debated topic since some people see it as a historical site and the others as a waste of potential land. Tip: Visit before it's torn down. These dimly lit alleys are full of atmosphere and you can just pop into one of its many tiny bars that often have space for less than handful of people. We really liked this place as it seemed to take us to another decade...but bar-hopping here may not be the best idea. Many of these joints have a cover fee (about 500-1000yen) per person and so having one drink per place might get expensive. Tip: Look for places with no cover fees and check the price list before entering as they might have double price on drinks. Other than that, it really is a must-visit place while in Shinjuku - you won't get much more personal service than that...
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| The passages are basically only lit by the little lanterns hanging outside of the individual bars |
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| The clientele often consists of few 'regulars' and few curious tourists |
NISHI-SHINJUKU
For the rest of the week we switched hotels to this side of Shinjuku that's known for its skyscrapers and business life. And although it was literally just minutes away from the station, it already had a way different feel to it, I guess the word calm would be the best to describe it. One of the highlights of this district is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building that has a public observation deck on its 45th floor, free of charge. And because it was so close to our hotel, we actually got up there twice; once to check out the views and second time to catch the city's night lights! It's not until you've seen the city from above that you start to grasp the actual size of it...
All in all, Shinjuku most definitely ranked on top of the list of areas within Tokyo and I would certainly stay there again on our next visit. And while it surely doesn't represents all parts of this versatile city, it certainly puts a vivid spin on your stay in Tokyo!
TOKYO METROPOLITAN GOVERNMENT BUILDING
{All pictures © Voyages of Discovery}
Accommodation
- Located in Kabukichō
- On a quiet street, just next to all the action (restaurants, bars etc.)
- A bit tricky to find, but really just 5-10min from the Shinjuku Station.
- Very modern and beautiful hotel with superb rooms (bit small, but that's a given in Tokyo).
- Find also on TripAdvisor and Booking.com.
- Located in the business / skyscraper area (West from station)
- Clean and neat hotel, a 5-minute walk away from the Shinjuku Station. Has metro station just across the street. Close to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building.
- No breakfast (as usual) but has a nice coffee place just downstairs and many mini markets just next to it (FamilyMart etc.).
- Find it also on TripAdvisor and Booking.com.
Like always, book in advance to get better and cheaper deals on Tokyo hotels, otherwise they're expensive and often full.
Getting Around
- Detailed information for the entire area (including a Shinjuku Station map)
- Shopping possibilities all around the station area and beyond
(information for subway; maps, fares etc.)
(opening hours etc.)
Other areas + Eating in Tokyo coming soon!
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